2198.4km to the Tropic of Capricorn - by Ellen

We had a lazy last breakfast at Sesriem; I followed the jackal tracks around the tent (sadly no sign of my crisps or the kettle box) while Evan shared his cornflakes with a flock of Sociable Weavers. Then back on the road, once again heading north. At 2198.4km we crossed into the Tropic of Capricorn.

We stopped for lunch in the middle of the desert, under the shade of a huge Camelthorn tree. Again the stunning scenery enhanced the flavor of the 2 minute noodles, which we washed down with a couple of beers that were – miraculously – still cold. We turned onto the C14 road, and bumped and bounced and jolted and lurched and jiggled and rattled our way along that for pretty much eternity. The road led us into the desert and back towards Walvis Bay on the coast. Walvis Bay is an industrial salt manufacturing town, nestled into the dirty grey sand. We decided to head on to Swakopmund instead – apparently it’s one of the places you should go to in Namibia - but didn’t think much of that either. Despite the fact that it was getting late, we turned on to the salt road and continued north, to try and stay at one of the fishermen’s campsites on the coast.

We got stuck behind the workmen who were watering the road, so within a couple of minutes the bakkie was turned into a giant portable salt lick – just in time for heading to Etosha National Park. We got as far as Henties Bay (more aptly re-named Panties Bay) didn’t think much of that. By this point I was getting a Little Tired, and threw a Little Bit of a Wobbly. So Evan stopped the car, walked round, opened my door, dragged me out, threw me down beside the road and drove off. Of course, he didn’t really, because he’s far too patient and kind and lovely and wonderful, but it would have been completely understandable if he did. Instead he drove his sulking wife back to Swakopmund.

We turned up at the only place where we knew we could camp, and were informed that yes, of course we could camp in their campsite, for the small fee of NAM$200 (about £20). Their ‘campsite’ was actually a tiny bit of ‘lawn’ in the ‘garden’ between the 5 other tents that had somehow managed to squeeze into the space. The alternative accommodation was a double en-suite room in the house with use of a kitchen for NAM$300 (£30). Bit of a no-brainer really.

We had the kitchen, dining room and living room to ourselves, but it would have been easier to cook on the CADAC in the garden – everytime I turned the electric hob up (which anyway was pointless as despite the dial indicating it was capable of different temperatures, it only really had ‘off’ or ‘hot enough to burn your food in 23 seconds’) the fuse blew and we were plunged into darkness. Anyway, the bed was comfy and the shower was great.