Evan’s decided that he’d rather drink beer, eat biltong and read a Wilbur Smith novel than write any more about Zimbabwe – so I’m afraid you’re stuck with me again.
Once we’d exhausted the wonderful food and hospitality of the Wetton and Passiportis family, we set off again in our little bakkie to Nyanga, in the East of Zimbabwe. We stopped off at Halfway House for lunch – a place where in all likelihood Evan’s grandparents would have stopped for lunch with Evan’s mum and aunts as little girls, going off on holiday.
The scenery is stunning. Climbing higher and higher up the acacia-lined roads, the balancing rock formations get more bizarre and precarious. We arrived at Inn on Rupaprara to be welcomed by the Dewhurst family – friends of Evan’s mum’s from school – who run the hotel. We spent a few extremely relaxing days here (my excuse for staying in bed whilst Evan was marched up Rupaprara rock at 6am was that I had flu), with fantastic food and breathtaking views, and a pair of rare Black Eagles circling overhead.
From here we headed to the Bvumba mountains. Bvumba means ‘drizzle’, and it’s a very apt name indeed. From the veranda with a beer we watched the clouds roll in, and the drizzle start to fall. As the rain set in we moved inside to the double-height dining room, where we enjoyed our candlelit dinner from the prime spot in front of the open fire (but then we were the only guests). We fell asleep in our attic room to the sound of the rain and the smell of wet thatching.
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